Wendell Berry.

All week I hve been reading Wendell Berry's essay collection titled Bringing it to the Table: On Farming and Food. It's not a long book, only about 230 pages or so, but reading Wendell Berry always takes me some time. Or rather, I should say, I need to take my time when reading Wendell Berry, because there's only so much of his writing that I can take at a time. That is because reading him is always inspirational, humbling, and scary. And that's a lot to take in while reading.

Berry is inspirational because I find what he says makes sense. In this collection, divided into three sections (Farming, Farmers, and Food), the emphasis of the chosen essays (ranging in publication dates from the early 1970s to 2006) is on why industrial agriculture is damaging our land and economy, and how small and sustainable farming practices should not only be practiced by farmers, but supported by consumers. There is nothing I can argue with in that. He is humbling because, as a small farmer himself, I think he does make the effort to practice what he preaches, and he is humbling because is writing is so clear and so beautiful.* But, as powerful and enjoyable as those first two feelings are, the end result of reading Wendell Berry is that I most often feel scared. Scared that our economy has taken us too far down the road of destroyed soil, food laden with chemicals and produced in animal factories, and oil dependence to ever go back. And, if I'm honest, scared because I DON'T WANT TO GO BACK TO THE FARM and I can't quite figure out how to live in accordance with his principles otherwise.

I think I will chat more on this one tomorrow, as I continue to read. But for today I'll leave you with the main scary thought I had, and a beautiful piece of Wendell's own writing. My scary thought was this: forget producing food in a small way; most of us, in our reliance on Costco and Wal-Mart, have given up on consuming in a small way. How do we even begin to reverse that? And now for the words of the man himself:

"But a culture disintegrates when its economy disconnects from its government, morality, and religion. If we are dismembered in our economic life, how can we be members in our communal and spiritual life? We assume that we can have an exploitive, ruthlessly competitive, profit-for-profit's-sake economy, and yet remain a decent and democractic nation, as we still apparently wish to think ourselves. This simply means that our highest principles and standards have no practical force or influence and are reduced merely to talk...

As a nation, then, we are not very religious and not very democratic, and that is why we have been destroying the family farm for the last forty years--along with other small local economic enterprises of all kinds. We have been willing for millions of people to be condemned to failure and dispossession by the workings of an economy utterly indifferent to any claims they may have had either as children of God or as citizens of a democracy." (pp. 38-39.)

Think on that for a minute or a year or so.

*I have often wondered how long it takes Berry to write one of his typical essays. They are sparkling little jewels of clarity and conciseness.

Comments

[Rachael]

I adore Wendell Berry, but you're right: he's terrifying. I first discovered him a few years ago when I developed this huge desire to live a simpler and less consumerist life. I also started fantasizing about buying 5-10 acres and micro-farming. (Seriously. This was right after 9/11, I hated my career, and I was living in NYC at the time. I think that says it all.)

Once I found his writings I realized just how radical a break I would have to make to really make a difference, and it was so horrifying that I knew it was all a pipe dream. That being said, I think he's totally right in some regards (I don't really see religion as the positive force he does, but I'm something of a feminist so I guess that's almost a given) and we'll never be able to get there.

Maybe the next book menage should be something about consumer habits and food? There would definitely be a Berry essay or two that would make great fodder for discussion.

[CR Fan]

Do you mean Berry is terrifying, or the future our choices point to is terrifying?

Just wondering.

[Beth]

well, after reading that i am so happy that i bought that for the library :) i now of course have to put it on my to read list, as it was not already there.

and for me, dissing walmart is easy. i hate them so i dont shop them. but then at the same time i shop amazon and big chain grocery stores and target, so i'm as guilty as anyone. my parents own a small business (a shoe store in southeastern massachusetts)and it crushes me that their business is struggling. since moving to nh, where i'm surrounded by farms, small business and CSAs, i've been gradually trying to ween myself off the big box stores. my husband too, has been a huge influence, as he's a make it yourself, do it yourself, healthy type of guy. so, baby steps.

it doesn't have to happen all at once.

[Citizen Reader]

Rachael,
Even if I could micro-farm with plants, I'll tell you two words that stop me cold (and Wendell loves them): animal husbandry. It's all I can do to get the cat box scooped. I do not want to be responsible for anything bigger.

Interestingly, Wendell is not all that stereotypically religious, and I think I've read in the past where he doesn't really follow any specific sect. I thought when I chose the above passage that was way more "religious" than I've ever heard him sound. I cut him a lot of slack that way because I think when he says religion, what he really means is "respect"--dignity for humans and animals, and dignity for the earth, more than he means following any organized religion.

I find him terrifying myself because he is right, the road we are on is wrong. But what is more terrifying is how lazy and unwilling I am to address my own habits. Wendell makes me see that, and how often can you face that in yourself without wanting to cry?

[Laura]

"Maybe the next book menage should be something about consumer habits and food? There would definitely be a Berry essay or two that would make great fodder for discussion."

I think this is a great idea!

[Priscilla]

We are a very religious nation, but we are NOT a very spiritual nation. We are also a nation who has created a capitalist God who tells us might makes right and to destroy the earth and so on is perfectly acceptable. I hope I don't sound nutty, but your post just touched on something I've been thinking about all week, and that is how, as a consumer, to even try to change things or send a message. Michael Pollan and others have tried to get people interested in CSA, but it still seems to be a choice made by people not for ethical reasons, but because it's a trend. And what about places where such a thing is not available? I try to vote with my dollar where possible by avoiding WalMart and only buying meat and dairy at Whole Foods, but I wonder, how much better is that really?

Too many questions, and not enough answers. Thanks for this review.

[Rachael]

Don't get me wrong, I *love* Wendell Berry. Religion (not faith or spirituality) is my own personal bugaboo, so it often gets under my skin.

I really like what he's said about our obligation to our animals. But yes: I'd always wanted to raise ducks and goats, and I realized I couldn't live up to the obligation after I read one of his essays (maybe in the W.B. Reader?).

[Citizen Reader]

Beth,
Thanks for the words of comfort about baby steps. I have to remember that. It's not so hard for me because I work at home and can therefore recycle two outfits endlessly--meaning I almost never have to shop for anything, except at grocery stores. I have never shopped at Wal-Mart and (god willing) never will, I do try to avoid Target even though Mr. CR seems to like it, and even the thought of "applying for membership" at Costco makes me too tired for words. BUT...at the same time, I feel for people being squeezed by lower wages (which they are, all the time) who still need to feed and clothe families. Do they really save money at Wal-Mart? Could they just buy less in general and get by without it? I've had the luxury thus far of not having to face those options, but I don't know how I'd react if I had to. That's what I find so depressing. And I freely admit we're not in poverty here but even I balk a little at paying what they ask for any kind of meat at farmers' markets. I KNOW it's the better way to go. But at the end of the day I'm also working with a finite pile of cash. Perhaps I need to find other sources of protein, maybe legumes. But where the hell are legumes trucked in from? See? It's endless.

Laura,
I agree. I'm slating it in for after Travel, which is where I think we'll focus the next Menage. Fair warning though: I dislike Michael Pollan (thinking he is a "big" author in the mold I'd rather not support) so I don't think I'll be able to suggest reading any of his books.

Priscilla,
Yes, I think you're right on "religious, not very spiritual." If we were actually spiritual I think we'd be seeing a few more antiwar protests.

I hear you on the Whole Foods question too. With everything so big, it's just so hard to know. And right on about your trend comment too. Are people addressing these issues for true reasons of sustainability, or just looking for new ways to be fashionable?

[Venta]

I'm still digesting this post, so I can't remark directly on it except it makes me sad...

However, does anyone remember the essay Berry wrote years ago (I read it in the late 1980s) about the workplace? He warned against the workplace becoming prisonlike. It was, of course, masterfully written. I can't remember the title or where I found it.

[Beth]

just a note on financial struggling. i myself got myself into a HUGE credit card debt in college and am still paying it (and student loans) off as i go. my husband is a free-lance writer and recently was laid-off from his full time job. now, i'm not in any way whining, but as for us, we have started following the model of some friends of ours. they are a couple with two children under 6, one works in retail and one is a stay at home mom who makes jewelry. this makes it very difficult to make ends meet at times, but the mom in particular is so good at dealing. they frequent flea markets and thrift stores, buy things on ebay (like a velvet dress for her daughter for 8 dollars), repurpose things, and freecycle like crazy. we've just started freecycling and it's great so far. also, i don't think we're quite accustomed to fixing broken things as much anymore when you can just buy another one. for example, our kitchen trash can broke (the kind with the foot pedal). i would have bought a new one. my husband fixed the pedal with a piece of wood and a screw. it's things like that i think that we have to work harder at.

i know i'm digressing from food, but it's similar. buying beans and lentils is pretty inexpensive, and they are very delicious and filling. peanut butter is a great protein as well, and natural peanut butter is still much cheaper than meat (and don't get me wrong. i'm a carnivore, but it is what it is). it's very much about doing without what you don't need and repurposing and taking care of what you have.

huge ramble. sorry. i just have been thinking about this so much lately, i guess i have a lot to say.

[Marmota]

I just read in a Taner Edis book (Don't read him - I hated the book, but liked this quote), "If once we were peasants ruled by priests, we have now become consumers ruled by investors". There is a moral void in American culture, and it needs to be addressed on an individual basis. We do need to consume less. Big farming partly came about because small farms (and small business, for that matter) can't produce enough to meet our insatiable demands. Small changes count. We could eat vegetarian 1 or 2 meals a week. Eat at local restaurants rather than huge chains.

Of course, I just finished a Frappacino, so I'm screwed for the day.

[Citizen Reader]

Hm, Venta,
I am intrigued by the sound of the Berry essay you mention. I will ask my sister, who is a Berry expert, but there may be nothing for it but for me to start going through and reading all his essays until I find it for you...

Beth,
I like rambles, no worry. I support you for freecycling, I'm just too lazy to do it. For someone who's not very good at adapting I tend to adapt rather than finding the energy to go buy something. I had to laugh at your garbage can story--good for your husband and fixing yours; if it were mine I would have just (unsanitarily) continued to use the can by lifting the lid with my hand. Ah, laziness.

Marmota,
Thanks for the (un)suggestion, but you know a bad book review always catches my interest--now I may have to try Tander Edis!

What's great about Wendell is that he points out small farms could be every bit as productive as big ones are, if not so. I honestly do believe that the scare tactics of "we'll all starve if farms don't become huge and efficient" line is totally a creation of agribusiness. (To some extent I saw this in practice--on our farm Mom maintained a garden that fed a family of 8 year-round and we had more than enough left over to sell twice a week at a farmers' market; and it just wasn't that big a garden.)

But you're right, at some point consuming differently and consuming less would help us all a lot. Sure, you had a Frappacino today, but there's always tomorrow to try harder. And it IS hard. Mr. CR brought home a Big Mac the other day, and I had a bite, and it was SO GOOD. Even though I know they are SO BAD. I said to Mr. CR, isn't it a wonder of food science and chemistry that something so horrible for us and for the earth can taste so good in the mouth (not only taste, but texture too, mmm salty burger and smooth smooth processed chees)? It's really incredible, and really insidious, when you stop to think about it.

[Susan]

I've recently discovered Berry and will add this book to my reading list.

[Citizen Reader]

Oooh, Susan, if you're just discovering him, you're in for a treat. I also really loved his novel "Jayber Crow" if you're looking for suggestions regarding his fiction. It's sick how talented the man is: essays, novels, short stories, AND poetry.

[Venta]

AND he's a farmer AND as someone said to me today, "I'm always surprised to hear he's still alive."

[Rachael]

CR--Jayber Crow is one of my favorite novels, and NO ONE ELSE ever knows what I'm talking about when I mention it. I was beginning to think I'd hallucinated the existence of the whole danged book.

Berry's language is so beautiful, it almost doesn't seem possible sometimes. I'm glad you're leaning towards him for a menage in the future. Hm, that looks bad in print, but you know what I mean.

[Rachael]

Also, how's this for odd timing. Mark Bittman's links to an Atlantic article on Walmart vs Whole Foods. Serendipity. Haven't read it all yet, but looks interesting.

http://bitten.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/02/22/wal-mart-vs-whole-foods/

[Jessica]

I'm reading this after spending 6 hours in the kitchen on Saturday, another 6 yesterday, and maybe 2 hours every day the rest of the week. Our CSA is a small family-run organic farm, and I'm glad I don't wake up there every morning. But cooking small is cooking big in some ways, you know? It never ceases to amaze how a meal can take so much time to prepare and so little time to eat.

[Citizen Reader]

Jessica,
That's the thing. I like food and I don't really mind cooking, but I just don't want to spend all that much time shopping (and running around to different places to get truly local veggies, BGH free milk, grass-fed beef, etc., as that kind of defeats the purpose) OR cooking. I was out walking today and my only thought about the coming springtime was, "You know...I should just own that I really don't care for gardening. At all. And I should reseed my 10 foot by 10 foot patch of garden out back." This is not the thought of a person doing a very good job of trying to live closer to the earth.

[Joey]

I'm an avid Berry reader and I'm also a pastor (and an egalitarian) so I may be able to offer some insight into Wendell's "religion." He is undoubtedly a Christian - though, as you have mentioned, I'm unsure of his specific religious (denominational) affiliation.

He is what we in formal religion would call a necessary dissenter. He is a voice that calls us back to the truth of our religious heritage even if what he says is critical of our practices (and, as an extension, his) - much like the prophets of old (think Nehemiah).

In an interview with Smithsonian Magazine he said, "You know, if you subtracted the Gospels and the Constitution and the Declaration of Independence from my work, there wouldn't be very much left."

In Christianity and the Survival of Creation he says:

"The religion of the Bible, on the contrary, is a religion of the state and the status quo only in brief moments. In practice, it is a religion for the correction equally of people and of kings. And Christ's life, from the manger to the cross, was an affront to the established powers of his time, just as it is to the established powers of our time."

He goes on to be critical of church/state relations but he is definitely a follower of Jesus.

And, Rachel, he is also an egalitarian (some might say feminist!) though he is critical of over-sexualization as lessening the value of women. He would also challenge the notion that modern-feminism has at all liberated women and suggests that, in fact, it has subjected women the same oppressions facing men that they, too, should move away from. He would hold that the industry of both is best used in the economy of home and household. He would not assign roles to gender in the household but suggests that both men and women would do good to be less dependent on work outside of the home and more focused on home economics.

Sorry to join the conversation so late. Hope some of my references helped to clarify some things!

Peace,
Joey

[Citizen Reader]

Joey,
Never a problem to join a conversation a bit later. That's why it's fun to leave posts up so long.

Thank you for your comment. I have never heard of "necessary dissenters" as a phrase and love it. Very interesting stuff.

Is "Christianity and the Survival of Creation" an essay of his? Do you know, from what collection? The passage you quote made me smile. It is so very Wendell. I think it is also a vision of religion and Christ that we have largely lost as a society. How can we get back to it, I wonder?

All very interesting.

[Joey]

Christianity and the Survival of Creation is from his book Sex, Economy, Freedom & Community. It was the first WB book I read. Good stuff.

If you're unfamiliar with the workings of N.T. Wright he has a pretty interesting vision for how we can get back to it as a theology of practice. Just put his name in Amazon (Berry's skin would curl) and you'll find a number of his 60+ books. I recommend Surprised by Hope as a good primer but his works that really focus on what WB is getting at are:

The New Testament and the People of God
Jesus and the Victory of God
The Resurrection of the Son of God

His new work is focusing on the anti-empirical message of Paul (a la Jesus and John of Patmos).

[Puma Outlet Store]

good to see you are blogging again. I enjoyed the full article and hope that maybe you can get permission to republish it in full after some time has elapsed - it deserves wider exposure online than it might get behind the log in.